Krakow - Days one and two

I have time before my night train back to Budapest, so thought I'd catch up here a little bit. I arrived in Krakow on the night train from Budapest on Saturday morning at 6:30am. I decided to start with a walking tour - well two of them actually: one of the old town and the other of the Jewish District called Kameriez. Unfortunately, the guide, although nice, struggled with her English and remembering her talk. It was very uncomfortable for all as we waited for her to find her words or as we listened to someone else tell us the history she was trying to relate. The fortunate part of the tours is that I got my bearings in both areas and was easily able to move through them to where I wanted to go over the next few days. On Saturday night I was beat from not sleeping soundly on the train ride and walking all over. I partook of the hostel traditional Polish Dinner (included in the price) and talked with one of my roommates for sometime. She is a young gal studying in Budapest this semester and has been traveling like made for the last year and a half. She was quite inspiring!

Sunday was Constitution Day, and also a holiday. So, figuring most things would be closed, I chose to go to Auschwitz-Birkenau in the morning and to the Salt Mines in the afternoon. I had the option of taking public transport and booking guides at the locations when I got there, or taking a "tour" which would get me there faster, in more comfort, and ensure I didn't have to wait an hour for a guide once I arrived. I opted to spend the additional money for the ease. Also, since I am traveling alone and know my own ability to get lost and not follow instructions, I figured it was best to go with a group. There was another gal from the hostel on both trips as well.

The trip to Auschwitz-Birkenau was quite sobering. Although I had been to Dachu outside of Munich when I visited Molly, this was just as great of an emotional experience. Seeing rooms full of suitcases & baskets, shoes, hairbrushes & combs, and human hair along with the photos of the people who arrived in the early days of the camp made it very real. Over 2000 people a DAY were killed in Birkenau for a number of years. We went through the crematorium in Auschwitz and it was hard not to cry. When we got to Birkenau (3 km fro Auschwitz) I chose not to go into the buildings where the women and children "lived". It was just too much.

We returned into Krakow and I found a little place that served pirogi - Polish dumplings. I had those and a salad for lunch and then stumbled upon Szczepanski Square and Street, so of course I have a number of photos for Sue! I also had enough time to go into the Museum that has Leonardo Di Vinci's "Woman with an Ermine" painting. Hmm, just didn't do anything for me.

I got back to the pick up point for the Salt Mine tour just in time. This bus ride was shorter and the guide on the bus was actually our guide through the mine also. I have heard people at the hostel grumbling about that tour as they didn't like it, but I certainly did. It was incredible to be in a mine that is still operating and has been for over 700 years! I had wanted to see the Salt Mine in Romania when we went in the fall, but we were unable to, so this was good. There is a legend about a Transylvanian/Hungarian Princess who lost her wedding ring in the salt mine in Romania and years later was found in this salt mine! There are a number of small chapels inside and a huge church as well. The chandeliers have salt crystals hanging from them. I'll post pictures when I get back. There are also a number of statues carved from the salt as well. A few years ago a number of people I know were reading "Salt: A world history" and I just couldn't imagine how boring it must have been. Now, I want to read it!

The day was capped with a fantastic time in a jazz club. Ian, a guy from Manchester England who checked in at the same time as I did went with me to this club that I had found on line. When I asked Adam at the hostel about it, he was thrilled to see the listing for a guy who calls himself "The Polish Ray Charles" and highly recommended we hear him. It didn't take long for him to start in on the Polish Patriotic songs as it was Constitution Day. There were two Polish men sitting at the table next to us -- and we ended up sitting with them -- as they were translating some of the songs (and buying us vodka!) There were a couple of other people who sang with him, and then a couple of times people in the club got up and danced and sang along as well. We had a great time but unfortunately, I did not bring my camera. Ian got photos and did a short movie as well, so I am hoping he will send them on to me like he said he would.